Contrary to the advertising schemes of stretchy sweat pants makers, there is no such thing as "one size fits all".  And this series will be no different.  My intent is not to give you a set of rules to obey, but instead to give you a set of blueprints to follow.  The goal is to provide you the tools to make your clothing selections with a plan and a purpose, ultimately choosing pieces in the "context" of who you and how you live your life. 

Like any construction project, if the foundation isn't solid, everything will be in need of constant maintenance or replacement.  A wardrobe is no different, so let's get building.

The single most important thing in building a wardrobe that works... is fit.  It would seem to be a no-brainer that you'd want to concentrate on fit first (I mean even Johnnie Cochran knew how important the concept of proper fit was, and he knew how to leverage it to his client's benefit).  But a quick look around the office, coffee shop, subway etc. will show how frequently fit seems to be given only a passing glance (if any thought at all), and in its place is a panoply of brightly colored plaid jackets and the ubiquitous stretch pant.  Ugh.

So what is "proper" fit?  That unfortunately can't be easily defined here, because wildly differing body types (as well as personal fit preferences, mixed with current fashion trends) will all require different approaches to getting it right.  I don't feel like turning this into a novel by attempting to detail every subtle nuance of fit (and I doubt you would want to read it), so I'll attempt to boil suit fit down the core elements.

Jacket fit:

1. Starting at the top (and I do mean your head), is the overall silhouette and color of the coat pleasing to your eye?  If the answer is yes, then you're off to a great start.  If not, look for something else. 
2. The fabric across the back of the shoulders and under the collar should be smooth, and free of folds, creases, and bunching up.
3. Through the chest, stomach, waist, and seat the fabric should lay cleanly, again without folds, bunching, or gaps.
4. The lapel should fall in a clean and straight line to the first button without any obvious sagging or pulling when the jacket button is fastened.
5. Clean lines should continue to the bottom of the jacket without too much overlap, or worse, pulling toward the sides of the body, opening the front of the coat up in a most unattractive manner.

Trouser fit:

1. Trousers should fit comfortably around your waist.  In over 20 years of bespoke suit making, I've found that your mileage will vary greatly at this point.  What is comfortable for one, is much too tight for another.
2. On the backside, the fabric should fall cleanly from the waistband covering the seat and that clean line should extend to the cuff.  Look out for fabric pulling across the seat (too tight), as well as an obvious indentation under the seat on the back of the legs.  You'll want to eliminate fabric puckering under the seat and going into the crotch area.  That just looks and feels bad all day long, and can be avoided. 
3. On the front, you're again aiming for clean lines both vertically and horizontally.  So no pockets and/or pleats popping out, nor bunching of fabric of fabric through the crotch. 
4. The fabric should fall cleanly all the way to the cuff area, where your preference for full, medium, or no break comes in.  Feel free to show as much sock (or ankle) as your heart desires, but you definitely don't want a puddle of fabric laying on the top of your shoes.

That seems like enough homework to do this week (if you're so inclined), but I'd like to hear your thoughts.  Did I miss anything?  Do you have a question, or maybe a different opinion about fit?  Please let me know in the comment section below.

If you are more inclined to NOT do the homework yourself, lucky for you I make house calls and can help.  Even luckier for you... since I'm in the bespoke suit business, each piece we make for you is designed, cut, and tailored specifically for you and your shape.  I guarantee a fit that you will love!